Tropicana saga

Spent this evening at church quarry again.
Myself and Ed both sent tropicana allergy (sans hold) and it turns out when tom did the line originally, he didn't use the missing crimp anyway.

also tried the extended version of the traverse, and a couple of other up possibilities, so more projects added to the list, watch this space......

Church quarry vid

Video from last post.

Church Quarry from grady on Vimeo.

Church Quarry

This week I finally made it to church quarry, and I cant believe what I've been missing out on.

The rock is pretty solid (as far as sandstone goes) and the features/steepness of the wall make for some really cool problems.

First up I did Utopia, a three-move V6 crack line, which was cool, then I did Sunflower, a one-move V5/6, where you dyno from a slopey crimp and gnarley v-slot to a sloping pocket.

After a bit of digging away at the base of Sunflower, I cleaned and sent "Boots mean Bodies" a V7-ish sit start extension to sunflower.

Next I turned my attention to Tropicana Allergy, a wicked traverse line between the jugs on Utopia and Nebuliser. After working out the final move I went for the send on film, after latching the finishing hold I went to review the footage, only to find that the camera had run out of memory just as I reached the last hold. Wanting some good film, I attempted to repeat the line, but ended up pulling of a pretty key crimp, making the big reach even bigger.

I eventually managed to make the move, but for the moment the line remains unclimbed in its current state.

Getting ready to pop to the pocket on boots

Must stop giving ed beta!

The cave project has now been climbed. After doing the groove finish ed was keen to send the whole problem, but appeared to be straggling with the initial moves through the crack to the lip. Having that and the finish fairly dialed and now just needing to link the two, I saw no danger in telling him how I did the first moves. I then sat back and watched in awe as he fired the whole line first try with the new beta.
Oh well the left finish is still there to be done, also this frees up my efforts for the vx proj.

Hmm whilst writing this I've realised I need to stop this bouldering stuff and get on some routes!

right!

Right, so I know I've said this before, but I'm gonna try and keep the whole blog thing a more regular occurrence from now on.

To fill you in up to know....

Went to font beginning of April, got loads done. Nothing super hard as the sheer volume of quality problems mean we just ran round the forest like a dog with two dicks, trying to do everything, but quite a good selection of classic font 7a ticks.

The day after our return to England, myself and Ed went to grinshill to have a crack at the inspector moss proj, which we both sent. And also the arete to the left, which turned out to have been done before, but is a cool line nonetheless.( longer report here)



Grinshill highballs from ed booth on Vimeo.

Since then, apart form a brief trip to north wales, to see the dmm factory and a bit of sports climbing in llanddudno, I have mostly been skulking around grinshill, trying two projects in particular, one a super technical wall on tiny holds, (unsure of the grade at the moment, but quite possibly in to the double figures) and the other a burly cave line with two possible finishes.

Slow start

So far this year, not much to report (hence the lack of posts), but have done a couple of blog-worthy things. Towards the end of January I headed up to Froggatt with ed to try my hand at Strapadictomy, falling from the last moves several times I gave up. I did however continue along the crag to climb long johns slab, downhill racer and oedipus ring your mother, all pretty cool routes. Also, recently got stuck back into the Grinshill projects and bagged the FA of Nicotine Energy, which goes up the wall just right of indifference (longer report here) Off for a week in font on Sunday, cant wait, should have plenty of pics and vids when I return.

On Downhill Racer (C) Adam Long